Round Formosa: A Complete Guide to Hitchhiking in Taiwan

When you think of dream destinations to hitchhike, you might think of New Zealand or Central Europe, but Taiwan probably would not be one of the first places named. However, I believe Taiwan easily belongs in the conversation of best places to go hitchhiking in the world.

If you don’t know – Taiwan, or the Republic of China, is an island across the strait from China, roughly the same size as Belgium with a population of 28 million people. It was formed around five million years a – I think I went too far back.

In the 16th century, the Portuguese gave the island the name “Formosa,” which means “beautiful island.” And from then on, the stage was set for Taiwan to become the 22nd largest economy in the world it is today, basically.

Taipei is full of things to do, like visiting the National Palace Museum filled with over 700,000 Chinese artifacts, or chowing down on delicious street eats in one of the various world renowned night markets. You could also go “hiking” aka climbing stairs up Elephant Mountain or Yangmingshan for stunning views of the valley.

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But don’t just look to Taipei, look at the whole island, and discover all of Formosa by hitchhiking!

How did I end up hitchhiking around Taiwan?

My friend Alf and I were “hiking” at Yangmingshan, and we didn’t know the last bus left around 4:30 pm, and it’s at least a 5K walk so he suggested we hitchhike down before it got too dark. Hitchhiking is a bit of a taboo in the US, nobody really does it anymore. So I said, “You crazy? I’d rather walk.”

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But he did convince me, and turns out the SECOND car we saw picked us up. This nice Taiwanese couple took us down to the metro station to catch the next train…unreal. Alf suggested on the metro that we take this hitchhiking thing slightly further, and go all the way ‘round Formosa, which is what we ended up doing the next month.

Why Hitchhike Taiwan?

One of the reasons that Taiwan is one of the best places to hitchhike is the total generosity and kindheartedness of the people. Our average wait time was about 10 – 15 minutes. Taiwanese are willing to help you out, and are interested in hearing more about you and your perspectives.

Taiwan is also a super safe country, with crime and theft at extremely low levels. Taipei is rated the third safest city in the world, according to Numbeo.

Convenience is something Taiwan has found a knack for with its 24 hour convenience stores where you can do everything from ship & pick up packages to buy concert tickets. You can also buy an Easy Card for 100 NT ($3 USD, times by NTD by .03 to get USD), which is like a prepaid card that affords you the opportunity to use it at convenience stores and access public transportation, including my favorite – the Youbike system.

Youbike is a docked shared bike provider subsidized by the Taipei government. In Taipei, it’s 5 NT for the first 30 minutes and 10 NT for every 30 minutes that follow. Really, all public transportation in low cost and efficient. From Taipei, you can catch a bus to the beach for 120 NT each way on a coach bus.

Another aspect of Taiwan’s convenience is that there are hostels everywhere you look. In every city, there are ample hostels available from around 300-500 NT/night.

The beauty of Taiwan still astounds me, with picturesque ocean views and mountainous terrain filled with as much tropical green as you’ve ever seen in your life. Taiwan’s terrain makes it ideal for cycling, and some refer to the island as “The Bicycle Kingdom.”

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Where to stay?

Each of the cities you would (most likely) stay in would have various options from shelter, ranging from hostels to five star hotels. You can choose whatever you like best and what fits your budget! Maybe you can choose your place to stay based on the car that picks you up? Alf and I were picked up by a couple in a Mercedes on the way to Taitung, and then by Frank in the red van, which matched our regular 400 NT/night hostel.

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Starting on the West Coast and going south towards Kaohsiung is a good way to go, because in my opinion, the East Coast is stunningly beautiful. It’s also easier to end your trip, because there is only one road, and only two places people are going: Hualien or Taipei. And once you get to Hualien, if you’re going there, it’s quite likely you can find a ride to Taipei.

The cities I recommend staying in are as follows, starting on the West Coast:

Taichung – Third biggest city in Taiwan, and about two hours south of Taipei. It doesn’t have a ton to offer, but if someone is going there, accept the ride.

Tainan – City with a lot of history and interesting places to explore. I would make it a goal to get here on your first day, and explore early the next day, then hitch a ride to Kenting. Alf and I stopped here but did not stay for too long.

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Kaohsiung – Second biggest city in Taiwan with some interesting sites, but the city is sprawling. If someone is headed here you should accept.

Kenting – Great beaches in this town in Taiwan. Best thing to do is to rent scooters from the corner shop and cruise to Eluanbi Lighthouse or to other beaches around the southern cape of Taiwan. Also walk the night market for cheap eats, and grab a pint at Pizza Swell or the VW Bus converted bar. You’ll meet some funny people out here, like Alf and I did!

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Taitung – Town located in the south of Taiwan with good beaches, especially at Dulan in Donghe Township. A Mano Pizza and 98 Cafe are especially delicious.

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Hualien – A great city on the East Coast about three hours south of Taipei. If you have more time, Taroko Gorge is one of the best places to see in Taiwan.

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When’s the Best Time?

The best time to hitchhike Taiwan is in the summer, when there are more cars on the road. It’s hotter outside, but the amount of cars will make the journey a breeze. And hope for no typhoon!

Even though I suggest summer as the best time, each of the other seasons are equally decent. In April, May, June, September, and October there may be more of a chance for rain, and the other months the weather would be more bearable. Start on Wednesday or Thursday, and be ready to head back to Taipei on Sunday, when there is plenty of traffic.

What to pack?

1A. A smile. I can’t overstate how far this goes in hitchhiking.
1B. A sign that says “北上” (“Bei shang” or “Going north”) and one that says “南下”
(“Nan xia” or “Going south”), or one with the city’s name on it.
1C. Extended arm and thumb. I’ll never forget when Alf told me “stick your arm out there further, mate.” I had my arm out about half way, not getting the full extension, which displays friendliness and shows you’re willing to put yourself out there for assistance, something too many people avoid doing throughout their lives.

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2. Intermediate Chinese. This would certainly help, and there isn’t much better Chinese practice than two hours with a stranger or four. It’s still fun without Chinese, but it makes the trip that much better with some understanding.

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3. The rest is easy. Shorts, shirts, light pants, socks, poncho, umbrella, and lots of sunscreen.

How long do you need?

Alf and I completed the tour in just three days, but I recommend about 4-5 days. If you go longer than 5 days, especially if you’re not going in summer, you might risk the trip taking longer due to rain and more sporadic pick-ups (this isn’t a bad thing :))

I hope you enjoy your hitchhiking adventure in Taiwan or anywhere for that matter. Always be careful and take the necessary precautions before heading out! It’s an amazing way to understand more of a place’s culture and befriend its people!

Doug Chesney
Doug Chesney

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