Lighthouse and Alpacas: Finding the Northernmost Point in Taiwan

It’s the first weekend in September, and Annie and I were on our way to Danshui, and then on to catch a bus to FuGuiJiao (富貴角, or “Rich Cape”), the northernmost point in Taiwan. The metro train to Danshui isn’t particularly exciting, although you do get a glimpse of the exquisite Grand Palace Hotel, where many foreign dignitaries have stayed in Taiwan over the years, along with the Beitou mountains at the edge of YangMingShan.

We exited and tapped our Easy cards at the gates. I hadn’t been to Danshui in over six months, but was reminded of it’s beautiful, arch-lined brick exterior walking to the bus station.

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Luckily, we found seats this time on our bus to FuGuiJiao. I realized I had forgotten sunscreen, but Annie glared at me, knowing I shouldn’t have forgotten sunscreen, and like a magic trick pulled out some out of her bag. She also came prepared with an umbrella, which proved useful against the unforgiving sun.

Walking from the bus stop to the lighthouse is about a mile, but if it’s in the summertime, it can be tougher than you might think with a steep hill, ridiculous heat and humidity, and only the occasional breeze. It’s worth the trek:

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I had explored the southernmost point in Taiwan in April, and four months later now stood at the northernmost point at FuGuiJiao Lighthouse.

FuGuiJiao Lighthouse differs from that of Eluanbi Lighthouse at the southern tip of Taiwan in that it’s lighthouse and surrounding buildings are smaller and shorter, probably being that it wasn’t used as fortification in addition to the ships’ guide. The octagonal lighthouse at FuGuiJiao stands 14 meters high, and was built piece by piece by Tanaka Iron Works in Japan, before being shipped to Taiwan.

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FuGuiJiao was also constructed three years after Eluanbi in 1896 under the Japanese, the year after they took control of the island from the Qing Dynasty. Both lighthouses are distinctly British looking, with Eluanbi’s actually designed by an English architect, W.F. Spindey.

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After making it back to the bus station covered in sweat, we stepped into the air conditioned 863, and were relieved to feel the rush of cold air. We took a short 15 minute trip back towards Danshui at Houcuo, close to QianShuiWan. There is a cafe nearby called OIA, which actually has alpacas walking around freely inside!

We enjoyed our pasta, and had some visits from our super soft new friends. The alpaca wanted some food, and decided my shirt would be a great appetizer!

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Annie and I went out to the back to feed the goats (my Chinese zodiac animal), and some other alpacas. We came back into the cafe with a much larger crowd of people, so apparently we got there at the right time.

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I think it’s a little off putting to see people frantically running around with their iPhones at the ready competing for the best alpaca picture or selfie. We looked to be doing the same at times, but we understand the most important thing is that the animals are well taken care of and not harmed in any way. And it is quite enjoyable to pet them and hang out – alpacas are extremely friendly and fluffy!

We left the cafe, and walked back to the bus station, feeling slightly more refreshed after the cold drinks and food. Boarding the bus again, we felt the rush of cold air and found seats for the trip back to Danshui, rare for a summer Saturday.

Another fun, sweat-filled day in the Taiwan heat, complete with colonial architecture and alpacas, in the books.

Doug Chesney
Doug Chesney

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